Norfolk Border 320K Duo Ride

In 2020 I’d ridden a solo summer solstice ride around the Norfolk County border, and since that time my mate Jim Churton had wanted to ride the Norfolk border ride with me, suggesting Autumn 2020. However, I didn’t really have the legs, or the will back then to do another border ride with Jim, so we had arranged to make it happen in 2021.

Norfolk Border Route- 320Km

June 2021 was the timing we decided on, close to the solstice but not quite on it. The weather had been really nice and hot around this time and was forecast to be good for our chosen ride date of the 12th of June.

Jim arrived on the Friday evening in readiness for an early start on the Saturday morning. We ate and drank well and spent a good time catching up together, whilst I faffed around deciding what bike to ride and adjusting saddle angles.

We had alarms set for 03:30 and as is typical for the night preceding an Audax, sleep quality was not the greatest. In any case, both Jim and I were up at the correct time and I started feeding on the soaked oats I’d prepared the night before, whilst Jim loaded up on cereal and black coffee.

We had got the bikes prepared and loaded into Jim’s capacious Citroên Berlingo car the night before, so at 4am it was time to leave the house for our start location of Outwell. Rather amusingly, we found the exact same parking spot that I had used in 2020 – outside a boarded up house near the church. We arrived around 04:50 and were ready for the off at 05:05.

Start location Outwell

Starting Off

The weather was wonderful. A long jacket was necessary to keep the very early morning chill off, but the sun was climbing in the sky and we knew we were on for a great day of sunshine. It was very nice to be riding with Jim again, we took things nice and easy to begin with and passed the time chatting about all sorts. The wind was light but was definitely in the right direction for our clockwise route around the border.

Jim on Gravel Bank near St John’s Fen End
Early morning loo stop

Jim had told me about a mate of his who lived close by and had suggested he may ride a little bit with us. An arrangement to meet Trev, near the centre of Kings Lynn, had been made and after around an hours riding we were nearing the meet up point.

Rolling through Kings Lynn, we heard a loud whistle and there was Trev, in the car park of a Spar convenience store, yet to open. Trev and Jim enjoyed seeing each other and particularly as Trev had brought a very nicely restored classic steel bike with him to show us. Turns out it was a bike that Jim had actually sold to Trev previously. Trev was recovering from a back injury so had decided not to ride with us on the day, so after a few more exchanges Jim and I were on the road again. It was nice to meet Trev, an instantly likeable fella with a very broad Norfolk accent (I was translating for Jim on occasion)!

Trev and Jim in Kings Lynn

Hitting the Coast

Rolling through Kings Lynn, then past the Sandringham estate and we were getting close to the coast for the first time. We went down to the beach at Hunstanton, and to be honest, although the weather was nice the place was a little grim. Closed amusements and small fairground rides with dormant caravan parks were the mainstay and didn’t inspire any photos from me really. So at the top end of Hunstanton, where the town had a nicer vibe I got a little snap of Jim on the road.

Jim, rolling through Hunstanton

We were on one of my favourite parts of the Norfolk coast now, passing through sleepy villages such as Thornham, and the Burnhams admiring the flint built walls which feature in many houses in this area. We went through Holkham, past the Hall and I was reminded of my main man Mick’s honeymoon, where him and his wife Ruth, had stayed in one of the gatekeepers cottages.

The weather was still playing the game, and we were riding well together – aside from me having a couple of moments where when rolling back to drop in line behind Jim (to tuck in to allow cars to pass us), I had dropped back a little tight and my left handlebar contacted with Jim’s rear Carradice bag, causing Jim to have to correct himself to stay on his line. Would have to be careful and remember that Jim’s Carradice is wide.

Second Breakfast

Shortly after Holkham we were in Wells-next-the-sea, where we had planned our first stop for a bite to eat. We rolled through the town and stopped at the Co-Op on the southern edge of the town. We had decided not to take locks with us so we took it in turns to get what we wanted from the shop. I got myself a couple of Pain au Raisins, a Müller Rice, coffee and water for our bottles. Jim got himself a coffee and a BLT sarnie.

Second breakfast in Wells-next-the-sea

We sat outside the Co-Op eating our second breakfast and chatting. After I’d finished I went back into the shop to use the facilities and picked up some hand sanitiser, and returning to the bikes I found Jim was chatting to a nurse who was heading into the shop, she seemed very friendly and it’s always nice to engage positively with people who may be interested in what you are doing, where you’ve been, where you are going etc.

Moving on round the coast from Wells-next-the-sea we were in the spots that I really like around the Norfolk coast – Stiffkey, Morston, Blakeney, Cley-next-the-sea, Salthouse and Kelling. Traffic was becoming heavier and we were having to line out more than we were earlier, so as not to present too big an obstacle for cars to get past on the narrow sections of coastal road. Next we passed through the more widely known coastal towns of Sheringham and Cromer, which featured a lot in my childhood trips to the beach.

Cromer pier from the coast road

Passing Cromer we were into Overstrand, where I took Jim on a little diversion to see where my wife’s Grandparents used to live. I was fond of them and it was nice to be back in familiar places remembering them.

Lunch at Poppyfields

I had thought that as I stopped in Mundesley last year to see my nephews then maybe we would stop there again this year, but we got to Mundesley quickly and we’re not ready for a stop at that time, so we continued for another 25Km to just beyond Waxham and stopped opportunely at a wartime themed café called Poppyfields.

Jim, sipping tea at Poppyfields

We were after a quick stop, so we were efficient with ordering our drinks and we knew from a quick look at the menu that a club sandwich with chips would do the trick for us both.

We were served by a Saturday boy, who was very polite but as this was his first Saturday in the job, seemed new and didn’t inspire confidence that our order would arrive quickly. However, we were pleased to be proved wrong and the drinks came swiftly, shortly followed by the food, which was excellent. The place really became busy as we were half way through our food, and we were pleased to have beaten the rush so that we could push on with the ride.

Hitting Traffic

The quiet sections of the coast were coming to an end, and after getting back on the road we quickly passed through Horsey, the Somertons, Hemsby and skirted Scratby, before arriving in a busy Caistor-on-Sea. This is where we hit traffic, and I knew that we would be on main roads with a lot of traffic for quite some time yet.

We navigated through major roadworks just past Caistor, and then up onto main roads through Great Yarmouth, before getting onto the dual carriageway to get towards the A143, which would then take us along the southern border. Jim was quiet and I could sense that he was not keen on the traffic levels around this area.

It was a relief to get off the busy dual carriageway and onto the A143, and with this change we were heading east along the Norfolk/Suffolk county border, criss crossing it in parts. The A143, was still a busy single carriageway road though, and as it is not particularly wide in places, we faced the roaring of engines each time a vehicle passed us. This didn’t particularly bother me, but I knew it was bothering Jim. He is used to riding quiet lanes in rural Shropshire, so this main road bashing was not his cup of tea. I tried to assure Jim that we would get off the main road a little later, but we did have more to go…

As we headed towards Gillingham (Beccles), we were overtaken by a particularly noisy old diesel powered van, and at this point I heard Jim shout from behind me “aaarrghh the fucking noise…!”

I didn’t say too much to this, because what can you say? I just suggested that there was a garage 5 minutes up the road and we should take a brief stop there to get away from the traffic.

Jim at Gillingham Services

We stopped at the garage and got ourselves some refreshments, I had a bottle of coke and used the stop time to rest. I took care of toileting and also applied a little embrocation to the rear. We’d cover 195Km so far and my saddle was making itself known. Jim enjoyed a quick break from the traffic noise and I showed him further ahead on the route where we would hit quieter lanes.

Time Trial Sir?

Leaving the garage we had a short spell heading North on the main Norwich to Lowestoft road, which was even busier, but it didn’t last long and we again headed east at the next roundabout back onto the A143.

Upon rejoining the A143, we unwittingly dropped into an actual Time Trial! I thought that was funny, given the heritage Jim has with TTs and also my recent participation in local TTs. Turns out we had dropped into a 10 Mile Open TT organised by Godrich CC on the B10/43 course. Looking at the race results a few days later the race was won with a time of 20:00 minutes dead.

B10/43 10 Mile TT Course

Getting to the finish of the TT marked a break from the busy roads, we headed into the centre of Harleston and then through Needham, before rejoining the main road for a while. we weren’t on it long before leaving it again to go through Diss, and it was here where Jim suggested a brief stop. It was very hot and Jim was beginning to feel empty of food, so he tucked into his bonk food whilst I chucked down a gel.

Whilst stopped we caught up with our respective people at home, as we were looking good for a decent finishing time for the ride, meaning we’d get back a little earlier than expected. It was nice to be on quiet roads again and we could ride next to each other where the roads allowed. We rode well together and made good progress towards Thetford, where I knew that I would need to get more garage food.

Jim, heading up to North Lopham

Last Stretch

We shared a chicken wrap at the garage in Thetford, along with a rice pudding each and I also got myself some sweets for the remainder. There was a big Chevy Camaro rolling around the garage and I assumed this was a USAF Lakenheath presence, it sounded decent but was no match in terms of looks to its vintage muscle car heritage of the 60’s and 70’s.

Riding from a Thetford to Brandon the road was a false flat and was pretty boring, I knew it well enough and Jim found it very uninspiring. We got ourselves onto very quiet roads after Brandon and I knew this was us set for the final stretch up and into the fens and back to the car.

Soon enough, we saw the usual “Road Ahead Closed” sign on the lead in to the flat fenland drag. We rode on past the signs expecting to get through the closure, as any diversion now would be most unwelcome. As we approached the closure the road guys let us through with no issue, and we rode on unmade road for around 2Km or so. As we popped out at the other end a quick chat with the road guy relaxing in his van told us that he had run down the battery of his vehicle and it would no longer crank to start, he was finishing 15 minutes later and he had no solution, so he suggested he would abandon the vehicle!

When the weather is fine, like it was and the skies are free of clouds, the fens do hold some kind of visual interest in terms of big skies and stunning sunsets. I asked Jim if he could ever see himself living in the fens, his response;

“No way Andy, I’d die… there is simply nothing to draw the eye to”.

Jim Churton on the possibility of living in the Fens.

This made me laugh and I pressed a bit more, saying I reckon he could handle it for a week, to which Jim protested even further.

Jim waiting at traffic lights near Welney

Heading up towards Welney Wetland Centre ahead of returning to the start location in Outwell, we passed a couple of guys flying a drone, and also passed a lone house with a large group of 2 or 3 families socialising outside of it.

Riding along 100ft bank past the lone house and past the Wetland centre we were literally eating flying insects. There were thousands of them, so we were having to keep our mouths closed to avoid additional nutrition.

We were still riding strongly together and as the sun was lowering, we were getting closer to finishing. The roads were very peaceful now and the sun was making great shadows over the few houses around, and we knew we would be finishing this ride successfully.

Finished

Just ahead of 20:00, we rolled back into Outwell to find the car still there and all looking good (bonus). We gave each other a decent handshake and started sorting ourselves out, getting out of our cycling gear and getting the bikes back into the car. Jim fancied a couple of specific beers; either Peroni or Birra Moretti, suggesting that these brands would clean up his claggy throat. I popped into the convenience store that we had parked opposite to and picked up a couple of large Peronis for Jim. After which, we were in the car and heading back to my house for dinner and drinks.

As we left Outwell, we were treated to horses being driven hard by some horsemen ripping through the village.

We’d had a great ride, despite the busy roads across the Suffolk border. We rode well together and had a laugh. I’d submitted this ride as a DIY by GPX with Audax UK, so was pleased to get it in the bag in that respect too.

Outwell horsemen

2 Comments

  1. An excellent article Andy. It reminds me of a Barmouth to Yarmouth tour I did about 15 years ago, rode your coastal section from King’s Lynn onward. I recall being impressed by the red and white cliffs at Hunstanton and a village with a lighthouse in its midst, about a quarter of a mile inland.

    1. Thanks for reading John. Barmouth to Yarmouth is on my list of rides to do… The lighthouse surely would have been at Happisburgh!

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